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Albania Itinerary: 5, 7, 10 and 14 Days (With and Without a Car)

The most common question we get is some version of 'I have X days, does this plan work?'. Here are four plans that do, each with a car and a bus version, plus the rules for building your own.

Written by KarelUpdated 4 September 20267 min readFact checked
Coastal road winding above turquoise bays on the Albanian Riviera
In this guide

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If you post “I have seven days in Albania, is this plan okay?” in a travel forum, you will get ten answers and they will all be slightly different. That is because the honest answer depends on two things: whether you have a car, and whether you care more about beaches or mountains.

This guide gives you four itineraries that work, tested by driving them and by watching what goes wrong for other people. Each one has a car version and a bus version, realistic travel times, where to sleep, and what to cut when a day disappears. At the end there are the rules we use to sanity-check any plan.

Driving times you can trust

Google Maps is optimistic on Albanian roads. Use these instead. Times are for a normal day in a rental car; add 30 to 60 minutes in August on the coast.

Real driving times between the main stops
RouteDriving timeBus / furgonNotes
Tirana → Berat2 h2.5 h, hourlyEasy road
Tirana → Shkodër1.5 h2 h, hourlyMotorway most of the way
Berat → Gjirokastër2 h2.5 h, 2 to 3 a dayVia Fier and Tepelenë
Gjirokastër → Sarandë1 h1.5 h, several a dayBlue Eye is on the way
Sarandë → Ksamil20 min20 to 30 min, every 30 to 60 min
Sarandë → Himarë1 to 1.5 h1.5 h, 2 to 3 a dayCoast road, slow but scenic
Himarë → Vlorë1.5 to 2 h2 h, a few a dayOver the Llogara Pass
Vlorë → Tirana2 to 2.5 h2.5 to 3 h, hourlyMotorway from Fier
Tirana → Sarandë direct4.5 to 5 h5 to 6 h, several a dayVia Gjirokastër
Shkodër → Theth2.5 to 3 h3 h, morning minibusPaved but winding

5 days in Albania

Five days is a choice, not a tour. Pick one of these; do not try to do both.

Option A: Tirana and the southern coast (the beach version)

  • Day 1: Land in Tirana. Afternoon in the centre: Skanderbeg Square, Blloku for dinner. Sleep in Tirana.
  • Day 2: Drive or bus south to Gjirokastër (3.5 to 4 h). Castle in the late afternoon, dinner in the bazaar. Sleep in Gjirokastër.
  • Day 3: Morning at the Blue Eye, then on to Sarandë or Ksamil (1.5 h). Beach afternoon. Sleep on the coast.
  • Day 4: Full beach day: Ksamil in the morning, Butrint ruins in the late afternoon when the heat drops. Sleep on the coast.
  • Day 5: Long drive back to Tirana (5 h) for an evening flight, or fly out of Corfu after the ferry from Sarandë.

By bus: identical, just take the morning bus each day and skip the Blue Eye unless you book a taxi from Gjirokastër.

Option B: Tirana, Berat and the mountains (the no-beach version)

  • Day 1: Tirana. Bunk’Art 1 and the cable car to Dajti if the weather is clear.
  • Day 2: Berat (2 h). Castle, Mangalem quarter, dinner by the river. Sleep in Berat.
  • Day 3: Osum Canyon day trip or the Çobo winery, then back towards Tirana or on to Shkodër (3.5 h).
  • Day 4: Shkodër: Rozafa Castle, the lake, bikes in the centre. Sleep in Shkodër.
  • Day 5: Morning in Shkodër, back to Tirana (1.5 h) for the flight.

This version works in spring and autumn when the coast is dead and the inland towns are at their best.

7 days in Albania: the classic loop

This is the itinerary we recommend to most first-time visitors. It gets you the capital, a UNESCO town, the best coast and the most spectacular road, without a single day that is only driving.

7-day classic loop
DayWhereWhatSleep
1TiranaArrive, centre, Blloku dinnerTirana
2Tirana → BeratCastle at sunset, old townBerat
3Berat → GjirokastërBazaar, Skenduli House, castleGjirokastër
4Gjirokastër → KsamilBlue Eye, then beachSarandë or Ksamil
5Ksamil areaBeach morning, Butrint late afternoonSarandë or Ksamil
6Sarandë → HimarëCoast road, Borsh and Qeparo stops, Livadhi beachHimarë
7Himarë → TiranaLlogara Pass viewpoint, Vlorë lunch, flight or last night in TiranaTirana / fly

Where to sleep on the coast: Sarandë if you want restaurants, buses and lower prices; Ksamil if the beach is the point and it is not August. Read Sarandë vs Ksamil before you decide.

By bus: doable, with two changes. Berat to Gjirokastër has only a few direct buses, so check the morning departure the day before. Sleep in Sarandë instead of Ksamil, take the local bus to Ksamil. Sarandë to Himarë buses exist but are infrequent; if you miss them, a taxi is €40 to €60. Day 7 becomes a long bus back to Tirana (Himarë to Tirana is about 5 hours) so consider flying out a day later.

What to cut if you lose a day: Berat. It hurts, but Gjirokastër is on the way south anyway and Berat is a detour.

10 days in Albania: coast plus north

Ten days is the sweet spot. You can do the classic loop at a relaxed pace and add Shkodër plus one night in the mountains, or add two extra nights on the Riviera if hiking is not your thing.

  • Day 1: Tirana.
  • Day 2: Tirana → Shkodër (1.5 h). Rozafa Castle, pedestrian centre. Sleep in Shkodër.
  • Day 3: Shkodër → Theth by car or the morning minibus (3 h). Walk to the Grunas waterfall and the Blue Eye of Theth. Sleep in a Theth guesthouse.
  • Day 4: Back to Shkodër and on to Tirana, or drive Theth → Berat in a long day (5 to 6 h). Sleep in Berat.
  • Day 5: Berat.
  • Day 6: Berat → Gjirokastër. Sleep in Gjirokastër.
  • Day 7: Gjirokastër → Blue Eye → Ksamil. Sleep on the coast.
  • Day 8: Beach day, Butrint.
  • Day 9: Coast road to Himarë, stopping at Borsh and Qeparo. Sleep in Himarë.
  • Day 10: Himarë → Llogara → Tirana. Fly out in the evening or add a night.

Swap for beach lovers: replace Days 2 to 4 with Ksamil earlier and add Dhërmi and Gjipe beach between Himarë and Vlorë.

By bus: drop Theth (the minibus timings make Day 4 impossible without a car) and give the extra day to the Riviera. Everything else works.

14 days in Albania: the whole country, including the hike

Two weeks lets you do the Theth to Valbona trek properly, see both UNESCO towns and spend five nights on the coast. This is the trip people come home raving about.

14-day itinerary
DaysWhereHighlightsSleep
1 to 2TiranaCentre, Bunk'Art, Dajti cable car, day trip to KrujëTirana
3ShkodërRozafa Castle, lake, arrange Theth and Valbona transportShkodër
4ThethMinibus in, waterfall and Blue Eye of ThethTheth
5Theth → ValbonaThe pass hike, 6 to 8 h. Bags go by car if you arrange itValbona
6Valbona → ShkodërKomani Lake ferry (book ahead), minibus backShkodër or Tirana
7BeratOld town, castle, wineBerat
8GjirokastërBazaar, houses, castleGjirokastër
9 to 10Ksamil / SarandëBeaches, Butrint, Blue Eye on the way inSarandë or Ksamil
11 to 12HimarëLivadhi, Gjipe by boat or hike, Qeparo villageHimarë
13Dhërmi or VlorëDhërmi beach clubs or quieter Radhimë, Llogara viewpointDhërmi / Vlorë
14TiranaDrive back, fly outFly

Practical notes for the trek: the Theth to Valbona (or Valbona to Theth) hike is about 17 km with 1,000 m of climbing and takes most people 6 to 8 hours. Guesthouses in Shkodër arrange the minibus, the Komani ferry and luggage transfer between the two valleys, so you walk with a day pack. Book the ferry and the guesthouses in advance in July and August. The loop is only reliable mid-May to October.

By bus: this whole itinerary works without a car, because the northern loop is minibus-based anyway. The only weak link is Berat to Gjirokastër (check bus times) and Sarandë to Himarë (few buses, or a taxi).

Where to base yourself if you hate packing

Not everyone wants a new hotel every night. Two-base version of a week: 3 nights in Tirana (day trips to Berat, Krujë and Durrës) and 4 nights in Sarandë or Himarë (day trips to Ksamil, Butrint, Blue Eye, Gjirokastër). Drive or take the direct bus between the two. You lose the road trip feeling but gain a lot of afternoons.

Rules for building your own itinerary

These are the checks we run on every plan people send us. If yours passes all six, it is a good plan.

  1. No more than one long drive (over 3 hours) per two days. Albania’s roads are slower than the distances suggest, and the driving is tiring.
  2. Two nights minimum on the coast, three is better. One beach day always gets eaten by arrival.
  3. One night is enough for Berat and for Gjirokastër. Two is a treat, three is too many.
  4. Do not sleep in Ksamil in August. Sarandë or Himarë instead, with Ksamil as a day trip.
  5. Arrive in Tirana in the evening, leave in the morning. A night on arrival is worth it; a full last day in Tirana usually is not. With a late flight in or an early flight out, Golem (45 minutes from the airport, on a sandy beach) is a calmer first or last night than the city, especially with kids.
  6. Without a car, cut one stop per five days and stay in the towns with bus stations: Tirana, Shkodër, Berat, Gjirokastër, Sarandë, Vlorë.

What to book in advance

  • Accommodation on the Riviera in July and August: 4 to 8 weeks ahead.
  • Rental car in summer: 2 to 4 weeks ahead, especially automatics. See our car rental guide.
  • Komani Lake ferry: a few days ahead in season.
  • Theth and Valbona guesthouses: a week or two ahead in summer.
  • Everything else: a day or two, or walk in. Albania is still that kind of place outside August.

For what all of this will cost, see how much Albania costs. For the first day, Tirana Airport transport covers the bus, taxis and transfers.

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Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Albania?
Seven days covers Tirana, one UNESCO town and the Riviera without rushing. Ten days lets you add the north or a second inland town. Two weeks is enough for the whole country including a mountain trek. Anything under five days is a city break plus one coastal stop.
Is Albania doable without a car?
Yes, but plan on one fewer stop per five days. Buses and furgons connect every town on these itineraries; they are cheap and fairly frequent in summer but run on loose timetables. Base yourself in Sarandë rather than Ksamil or Himarë if you are relying on buses.
Should I start in Tirana or somewhere else?
Most people start in Tirana because that is where the flights land. If you are heading only to the southern coast, flying to Corfu and taking the ferry to Sarandë can save you a five-hour drive each way.
What is the best month for these itineraries?
Late May to June and September. Warm sea, everything open, half the August prices and crowds. July and August work but book the coast weeks ahead and expect traffic on the Riviera road. The mountain hikes are only reliable from mid-May to October.